by Paige Donner
Champagne René Geoffroy
1. Pureté Brut Zero – harvest of 2006-2007. 50% Pinot Meunier, 40% Pinot Noir. Nose gives an ever so slight hint of champignon. Mouth is full of minerality, balanced, not for the fruity palate. 25 €
2. Extra Brut 2004 – Dosage is only 2gr. of sugar. 71% Chardonnay, 29% Pinot Noir. Nose is balanced, fresh full of sunshine. Mouth strong on minerality. 58 €
3. Rosé de Saignée Extra-Brut 100% Pinot Noir, 10gr. dosage (sugar). This one, disgorged in February ’12, has hints of strawberry pie. Color more of a peachy pink. Nose is reminiscent of a “provence de champagne.” Mouth, very light effervescence, has enough spine to accompany appetizer or light meat dishes. 31€
4. Blanc de Rosé Extra-Brut 40% Chardonnay and 60% Pinot Noir. Only 2gr. of Sugar. This house/ Jean-Baptiste Geoffroy never practices malolactic fermentation. 52€.
From Pierrey, Coteaux d’Epernay. Grapes are primarily from Dizy, Pierry, Vertus. Maitre de Chai is Jean-Marc Sélèque.
Winemakers philosophy: When it comes to adding the dosage,”… at the beginning of the history of making champagne, sugar was added only to lend a balance to the wine. It has evolved into actually adjusting the wine to a certain taste. But sugar doesn’t have an identity in and of itself. So it’s important to remember not to mask the wine. But rather to respect the terroir, the soul/spirit of the wine.” This is a family-owned producer who issues about 100,000 bottles a year.
1. “Or Blanc” Premier Cru – 100% Chardonnay. Now releasing the 2008 base wine. 25€
2. Comédie 2007 Premier Cru – Named after how his grandmother could best describe his grandfather in one word, this Grand Vin is a blend of 70% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Noir and 15% Pinot Meunier. It was only just released in July 2012. Long in the mouth. 28€
3. Sérénade Rosée – Here they use the saignée method, which is the delicate method of extracting the color from the grapeskins to achieve this beautiful rose petal pink. The juice from the red grapes is then used for their Ratafia. 6 gr. of sugar. A rose that is sophisticated and true to the region’s roots.
4. Ratafia Red – This is known as the “treasure of Champagne.” But it’s even more rare to find a “red” version of this sweet liqueur. Blackfruit, plummy. Almost like a port with hints of caramel.